Punters of the Storm
Punters of the Storm is a new route that I had a small hand in putting up with Raphael this fall located on the Storm Headwall, just off Highway 93S. Worth noting that Raph put in the ‘heavy lifting’ sending the crux second pitch first. In total, it took two days to complete the route, with the first day spent exploring the potential of the route along with placing a few bolts. With some doubts about potentially critical ice sticking around long enough, we were able to return to the route about a month later to finish it off. Admittedly, upon approaching the base of the route on the second day, I had some doubts about it as the already small bits of ice were looking even smaller. Fortunately, Raph’s enthusiasm for the route had us gearing up regardless, and unsurprisingly he was correct in his optimism that the route would indeed go. Finishing this one off was an enjoyable experience, especially being able to draft off the master of Rockies mixed climbing.
This route shares most the same first pitch as ‘Check Your Head’ and the route ‘Riders of the Storm’ recently put up by Jon Walsh and Jas Fauteux.
Punters of the Storm in red, with purple being Riders of the Storm which was a route put up earlier this fall by Jas and Jon.
Punters of the Storm
M7+, ~150m
Slawinski & Godberson
Rack: Single rack of cams to 3, nuts, Tricams.
P1: Climb easy ice to the snow ledge ~30m.
P2: Head directly up the ice then climb trending left on a mix of rock and thin ice. Near the top of the pitch as the climbing is getting easier, look for a single bolt on the slab to your right. Step out of the left trending ramp and onto the slab on thin hooks. Clip the bolt, then continue traversing right around the corner on tenuous tool placements to the two bolt anchor located at the base of a steep corner. ~30m
P3: Head directly up from the belay up towards the overhanging crack on the right side of the corner. Clip two bolts, then climb the crack on good tool placements. The crack takes good cams. At the top of the crack, clip a bolt and then make a tricky move pulling over the edge out right over a small ledge. Climb thin ice while placing spaced rock protection and possibly short screws. You will find one more bolt to clip as you pull through a small roof on thin ice. Follow easier thin ice up to the belay under a small roof with one bolt and two pins, placing good rock protection out to your right side. ~30m.
P4: Climb thickening ice to the top. ~60m.
Myself leading up the first pitch following behind Paul and Ryan who were climbing Check Your Head.
Raph stepping out of the corner system into a tenuous sequence of thin holds.
Looking over towards Ryan as he belays Paul on P2 of Check your Head.
Raph launching up P2.
Myself coming up to the belay at the top of P2